Women's Jacket Pattern Making

Measurement Required

Full Length

Shoulder

Chest

Waist

Hip

Arm hole

Sleeve Length

Sleeve round

Waist length

Neck round

Back

Begin with the top left corner of the square.

A-A1 = ½ of Bust Circumference + 5cm + 2.5cm

A-B = Move Down 1/24 + .5 cm

A-C =1/6 Chest + 1/24 chest + 1.7cm Ease allowance( not a fixed measurement)

A-D = Back waist Length Measurement. Square across.

D-E = Hip Depth, Square Across

A-F = Jacket Length Square Across

A-G =1/12 of chest + 0.5cm (with a curve join points B-G)

A-H = ½ Back Width + 0.5cm

C-C2 = ½ C-c1 – 1cm

F –F1 = Same amount as C-C1 join points C2 to F2

H1 = Perpendicular to C-C1

H-L = move down4.5cm

B1 – L1 = ½ Back shoulder width + 1.5cm (1cm ease) + 0.5cm ease allowance. Jon points G Shoulder Length

L1-L2 =Mark up 0.5cm (for Shoulder pad)

1-M = Square up 5cm and square right 0.8 cm

M-M1 = move right .05 cm with a curve draw the armhole joining the points L1, M2, M1, C1. Move down 9cm along the armhole and mark two notches.

B2 = ½ of A-C

D-D2 = Move right 2cm

F-f3 = Move Right 2cm and join points B2-D2-E2

D2-R = Move 1/3 of half chest + 2cm square down from R for F

R1-F4 =with a curve join points M, R.

F4 = Move cm to each side.

R3- R4 = From R mark 1.2cm each side. With a curve join points M – R2-F4 and M, R, F4 (as shown in the diagram)

FRONT

D1 – A2 =Front Waist Length

A2 – B = 1/6 size + 1 cm

A2 – H = ½ back width, same measurement as back 1cm

H-1 = Perpendicular to C1 – C2

H-L = Square down 6.5cm

1-M = Square Up 5cms

M-M1 = square left 1-1.5cm (Not a fixed measurements)

M1-M2 = Square down from M1 (Reference points for sleeve)

A2-A3 = Move down 3cm

A3-G = 1/12 Chest +0.5cm

L1-L2 = Move up 0.5cm (for the shoulder pad)

G-L1 =Same Measurement of G-L1

M-M2 = Move left 0.5cm – 1cm

A3-N = Bust height

N-N1 = ½ Bust distance + 1.2cm

N1-R =Parallel to N-D1

N1-R1 = Move down 2-3cm

R3 – F5 = Parallel with C2 – F2 (square down from l)

R3-R4 = From point R move each side 2cm (Not a fixed measurement from point F5 move 0.5cm each side)

With a curve join points M1-R2-F5 and M2-R2-F5

D1-D2 = Square right 2-2.5cm (single breasted)

D2-P = Square up 10cm, bust point (Not a fixed measurement)

G-G1 = Mark 1.5cm on RHS and join to point P. draw the collar as shown

R-O = Square down 5-7cm pocket position

O-O1 = Square right 1.5-2cm

O1-O2 = Square left 1.5cm (pocket measurement)

R1-O = Draw the dart, moving 1.5cm left as shown in the diagram

Sleeve

Trace Front bodice as shown in the diagram.

Mark 1 as D and 2 as E and L1 as B & C

Mark BP at center of the line B-D and FP at M1 in front armhole curve from the bodice.

Square up and across from 0.

0–1 -one third armscye measurement; square across.

1–2 -1/3 measurement of 0–1 + 1 cm; Draw a line

across.

0–3 -quarter the measurement 0–1.

3–4 -Measurement of C–FP + 1 cm

Join 3–4.

4–5 -Measure B–BP from bodice + 0.8 cm

Join 4–5.

0–6 -The measurement C2–E on body block.

0–7 -2 cm; square across both ways.

7–8 and 7–9, 2 cm; Draw a line down from 8 and 9.

1–10 -sleeve length measurement; draw line across to 11 and

12.

10–13 -3 cm; square across.

10–14 -Half of sleeve round; join 10–14 and

10–11.

7–15 -half the measurement 7–10; square across

inward curve 2 cms at elbow line

Draw in sleeve head.

5–4 -Raise the curve 1 cm.

Mark 16; 4–16 is 1/3rd measurement of 4–3.

4–3 -Draw a curve line at 16, 2 cm; join 3–8 with a curve.

6–17 -Measure A–BP on bodice block,

measure straight, + 0.5 cm.

Join 6–17, draw a curve 1.5 cm.

Join 6–9 with a curve line.

Join 17–14 and 5–14.

Mark 18 and 19 on elbow line.

Draw Curve line outer sleeve seams outward 2.3 cm

Note: All curve measurements are measured accurately along the curved lines

with the tape upright.

Ease at the sleeve head

The ease in the sleeve cap is drafted to give a full

rounded appearance to the sleeve cap. .

Padded shoulders

All the blocks and sleeves have no seam allowance

included.

Points to consider:

1. Fabric Required 1.7 Mtrs’ length & width of 58".

2. slightly stretch fabric diagonally to align the warp & weft.

3. Iron the fabric to remove crease, prior to marking and place the draft.

4. if you are a beginner, prefer making the paper draft first, then pin it to fabric.